Stage-by-Stage Guide to a Galley Modular Kitchen Layout for Narrow Runs

Stage 1: Measure the Run and Set the Corridor Width

Start by measuring the full length of both walls and the distance between them. In a straight galley, the two parallel runs create a corridor. The width of this corridor is the single most important dimension for comfort. Aim for at least 120 cm between countertops if you have the space, but you can work with 100 cm in a compact home. Less than 90 cm makes opening drawers and ovens impractical.

Modular cabinets come in standard widths—usually 30, 40, 50, 60, 80, and 120 cm. Sketch your wall length and note where windows, doors, and utilities sit. Mark the water supply, drain, and gas line positions. These fixed points will determine where the sink, hob, and tall units can go. Do not finalize any cabinet order until you have a rough plan with these measurements.

Stage 2: Allocate the Work Zones Along the Two Sides

In a galley, you have two walls, so you can separate wet and dry tasks. Put the sink and dishwasher on one side, and the hob, oven, and refrigerator on the other. This keeps plumbing and gas on separate walls, which simplifies installation and reduces pipe runs. The classic order for one side is fridge, prep, hob; for the other, sink, drain, and dishwasher.

Keep a continuous work surface between the hob and the sink if possible. Even a 40 cm section of countertop gives you a landing zone for hot pans or washed produce. In a narrow galley, avoid placing the hob directly opposite the sink—leave at least 100 cm of corridor so two people can pass without turning sideways. If your corridor is under 110 cm, consider a single-person galley and keep the walkway clear of islands or peninsulas.

Stage 3: Choose Modular Cabinets for Vertical and Base Storage

Base cabinets in a galley should prioritize deep, pull-out drawers over fixed shelves. Drawers with full-extension runners let you see the back of the cabinet without crouching. Use a 2:1 ratio of drawers to shelves in the base run. For corner cabinets, install a carousel or a magic corner unit—these turn an otherwise dead corner into usable storage for pots and small appliances.

Tall larder units are your best friend in a narrow galley. A 60 cm wide tall cabinet can hold a pull-out pantry, a built-in oven, or a column for brooms. Place it at the end of the run, away from the window, so it does not block light. If you have a wall-mounted hob, install a pull-out unit below it for spices and oils—this uses vertical space that would otherwise be wasted.

Stage 4: Plan the Upper Cabinets and Open Shelving for Light

Upper cabinets in a galley should not extend all the way to the ceiling unless you have a step stool. Standard height is 54 cm above the countertop, but in a narrow galley, you can go a bit higher—say 60 cm—to avoid a boxed-in feel. Use glass-front doors on the upper cabinets above the sink or prep area to reduce visual weight and bounce light around.

Open shelving works well on one wall if you have a lot of dishes. Install two or three floating shelves between the upper cabinets and the countertop for everyday cups and bowls. Keep the shelves shallow—20 cm deep is enough—so they do not crowd the work surface. If you prefer closed storage, choose cabinets with a lift-up door or a fold-down front to avoid hitting your head when you lean in.

Stage 5: Finalize the Cabinet Order and Install with Precision

Once your zone plan is set, create a cutting list for the modular cabinets. Standard base cabinet depths are 60 cm, and upper units are 35 cm. For a galley, order the same depth for all base units so the countertop runs in one clean line. If you need a pull-out table or a breakfast bar, add a 30 cm deep extension to the end of one run, but only if the corridor stays above 100 cm.

Installation order matters: start with the corner base unit, then work outward. Level each cabinet with shims before screwing them together. Fit the countertop last, after the sink and hob are cut. For a straight galley, a single slab of quartz or laminate avoids a seam in the middle. Seal all joints with a flexible silicone to protect against moisture. After installation, test every drawer and door to ensure they open fully without hitting the opposite handle.