Week-by-Week Kitchen Remodel Timeline: A Worked Example

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Week-by-Week Kitchen Remodel Timeline: A Worked Example
Week-by-Week Kitchen Remodel Timeline: A Worked Example

Setting Up the 8-Week Schedule

Before demolition begins, the timeline depends on scope. A full remodel—new cabinets, countertops, flooring, backsplash, and appliances—typically runs 6 to 10 weeks. This plan uses an 8-week example for a 10x12-foot kitchen, assuming a licensed contractor handles structural work and you manage ordering and cleanup. If you are only replacing countertops or painting cabinets, expect 2 to 4 weeks instead.

The critical first step is finalizing all material choices and placing orders. Cabinets lead time is often 4 to 6 weeks, and custom countertops can take 2 to 3 weeks after templating. If you order after demolition starts, you will add delays. Confirm lead times with suppliers before setting your start date, and have a signed contract with a detailed scope of work and payment schedule.

For this example, the homeowner, Alex, ordered shaker cabinets in Week 1, quartz countertops in Week 2, and all appliances in Week 3, so nothing holds up the schedule. The contractor handles permits, which for most kitchen remodels take 1 to 2 weeks, but the work can begin before they are issued if the scope is cosmetic. Check your local rules—some municipalities require a permit before any demolition.

  • Order cabinets, countertops, and appliances before Week 1.
  • Confirm lead times and delivery dates with suppliers.
  • Obtain necessary permits or confirm they are not required.
  • Set a realistic budget with a 10–20% contingency for surprises.
A contractor and homeowner reviewing a kitchen floor plan on a tablet
A contractor and homeowner reviewing a kitchen floor plan on a tablet

Week 1: Demolition and Site Prep

Demolition is loud, dusty, and quick. In Week 1, the crew removes cabinets, countertops, flooring, and the sink. They disconnect plumbing and electrical, and they cap gas lines if you have a gas range. In Alex's case, the crew finished demo in two days, then spent the rest of the week on site prep: patching walls, removing old adhesive, and verifying that the subfloor is level.

This is the week to protect the rest of your home. Seal doorways with plastic sheeting, cover floors in adjacent rooms with ram board, and set up a temporary kitchen elsewhere—a microwave, toaster, and mini-fridge in a laundry room or garage works. Alex rented a portable induction cooktop for the duration, which kept meals practical.

Expect surprises. In Alex's kitchen, the crew found water damage behind the old sink cabinet, adding $400 and two days of drywall repair. Your contingency budget should cover this kind of find. If the damage is structural, the contractor should stop work and discuss options before proceeding.

  • Remove old cabinets, countertops, flooring, and fixtures.
  • Cap or disconnect gas, plumbing, and electrical lines.
  • Inspect for water damage, rot, or outdated wiring.
  • Set up a temporary kitchen outside the work zone.
A kitchen with exposed studs and debris after demolition
A kitchen with exposed studs and debris after demolition

Week 2: Rough-In Work for Plumbing and Electrical

With the walls open, the electrician and plumber run new lines. This is the rough-in phase: moving outlets to code-required heights (typically 12 inches above the counter), adding dedicated circuits for the refrigerator and microwave, and repositioning the sink drain if the new layout demands it. In Alex's remodel, the sink moved 18 inches to the left, which required extending the drain line and adding a vent.

Rough-in work must be inspected before walls are closed. Schedule the inspection for the end of Week 2 to avoid delays. The contractor should provide a checklist of what the inspector will check—outlet spacing, GFCI protection, and venting. In Alex's case, the inspection passed on the first try, but one failed inspection can add three to five days.

This is also when you confirm the final cabinet layout and appliance placement. If you are adding a kitchen island, the rough-in must include the electrical and plumbing for it. Walk the space with the contractor and mark outlet locations on the studs with a pencil—changes after drywall are expensive.

TaskTypical DurationNotes
Electrical rough-in1–2 daysOutlets, circuits, lighting
Plumbing rough-in1–2 daysDrain, vent, supply lines
HVAC adjustments0–1 dayOnly if moving ducts
InspectionHalf daySchedule early in the week

Weeks 3–4: Drywall, Paint, and Flooring

After inspection, the crew installs drywall, tapes, and muds the seams. This takes most of Week 3, including drying time between coats. Alex chose a smooth finish, which required three coats and added a day. Once the walls are dry, the painter primes and paints the ceiling and walls—do this before cabinets go in to avoid cutting in around them.

Flooring typically goes down in Week 4, after painting is done. If you are installing tile or hardwood, the subfloor must be clean and level. Alex chose luxury vinyl plank, which was installed in one day. For tile, expect two to three days including mortar drying and grouting. Do not walk on new flooring for at least 24 hours after installation.

This is also the week to install any new window or door trim, and to have the countertop templating done if it wasn't earlier. The countertop company visits after the cabinets are in place—wait until Week 4 or 5, depending on cabinet installation. In Alex's case, the templating happened in Week 5, after cabinets were set.

Weeks 5–6: Cabinets, Countertops, and Backsplash

Cabinet installation is the most satisfying phase. The crew sets base cabinets, levels them, and secures them to the wall, then hangs uppers. This takes two to three days for a standard kitchen. Alex's cabinets arrived on schedule in Week 5, and the installation was completed in two days. After cabinets are in, the countertop templating company comes to measure for the quartz—this is a separate visit from installation.

Countertop fabrication takes one to two weeks, so Week 6 is usually when they are installed. The crew sets the slabs, cuts the sink hole, and seals the seams. After that, the backsplash tile goes up. In Alex's kitchen, the tile installer completed the backsplash in two days, including grouting and sealing. Wait 24 hours after grouting before you use the sink or cooktop.

This is also the time to install the sink, faucet, and any under-cabinet lighting. The plumber connects the sink and dishwasher, and the electrician wires the lighting. If you have a garbage disposal, it goes in now. Test everything before the final walkthrough—run the dishwasher, check for leaks under the sink, and verify all outlets work.

  • Install cabinets and secure to wall studs.
  • Template and fabricate countertops.
  • Install countertops and backsplash.
  • Connect sink, faucet, dishwasher, and disposal.

Week 7: Appliances and Final Trim

Week 7 is for installing appliances and finishing touches. The refrigerator, range, and dishwasher are delivered and connected. In Alex's case, the refrigerator was delivered in Week 7, but the range had to wait because the countertop was installed a day late. Coordinate delivery dates with your contractor to avoid gaps—have a plan for storing appliances if they arrive early.

The trim carpenter installs baseboards, door casings, and any crown molding. The electrician installs light fixtures, outlet covers, and switch plates. The plumber installs the sink faucet and any pot filler. Walk through the space with a checklist: every outlet works, every drawer slides, every door closes, and the backsplash is sealed.

This is also the week to touch up paint and caulk seams. Use painter's caulk where the countertop meets the backsplash and where the cabinets meet the wall. Clean the entire kitchen—remove dust from cabinet interiors, wipe down surfaces, and vacuum the floors. Your contractor should do a final cleanup, but you will want to do a detailed clean yourself before moving items back in.

ApplianceDelivery Lead TimeInstallation Time
Refrigerator1–2 weeks30 minutes
Range or cooktop1–2 weeks1 hour
Dishwasher1–2 weeks1–2 hours
Microwave (built-in)1–2 weeks1 hour

Week 8: Final Walkthrough and Punch List

The final week is for the walkthrough and punch list. Walk through the kitchen with your contractor, room by room, and note any defects: scratches on countertops, misaligned cabinet doors, grout haze, or paint drips. In Alex's case, the punch list had four items—two cabinet doors needed adjusting, a backsplash tile had a chip, and the under-cabinet light flickered. All were fixed within three days.

Before you sign off, confirm that all warranties are registered and you have copies of manuals. Check that the contractor has obtained a final inspection if your permit required one. Keep a folder with receipts, warranty cards, and the contract. If you paid in installments, the final payment is due after the punch list is complete.

Move your items back in gradually. Unpack dishes and cookware, but leave the heavy pantry organizing for later. Run a full cycle of the dishwasher and cook a simple meal to test the range and ventilation. This is also the time to deep-clean the kitchen—use a gentle cleaner on quartz or granite, and avoid abrasive pads on any surface.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most common cause of kitchen remodel delays?
Material lead times, especially for cabinets and custom countertops, are the top cause. Ordering late or changing selections mid-project can push the schedule by weeks. Inspections and unexpected structural issues like water damage also add days.
Can I live in my house during a kitchen remodel?
Yes, but you will need a temporary kitchen. Set up a microwave, toaster, and mini-fridge in another room. Plan for dust and noise, and keep the work area sealed off. If the remodel includes asbestos abatement or major structural work, consider staying elsewhere.
How much should I budget for a kitchen remodel?
A minor remodel averages around $25,000, while a major upscale remodel can exceed $80,000, according to industry cost guides. Set aside 10–20% extra for unexpected issues like plumbing or electrical repairs. Get at least three quotes from licensed contractors.
Do I need a permit for a kitchen remodel?
Most jurisdictions require permits for structural changes, electrical or plumbing work, and sometimes for cabinet removal if it affects load-bearing walls. Cosmetic changes like painting or replacing countertops may not need one. Check with your local building department before starting.

Written for general information. Not professional advice.