DIY Kitchen Nook Bench Plans: A Step-by-Step Build for a 6-Foot Banquette

What You’ll Build and What You’ll Need

This guide walks you through building a freestanding kitchen nook bench that seats three adults comfortably. The bench is 72 inches long, 20 inches deep, and 18 inches high—a standard height that pairs well with a 30-inch table. It features a hinged plywood top that lifts to reveal a 12-inch-deep storage compartment underneath.

The design uses two identical end panels, a front skirt, and a back panel, all made from 3/4-inch plywood. The bench is assembled with wood screws and glue, so you don’t need a pocket-hole jig or specialized joinery. You’ll need a circular saw or table saw, a drill/driver, a jigsaw, a sander, and basic measuring tools. A Kreg jig is optional but not required.

For materials, buy one 4x8 sheet of 3/4-inch plywood (use Baltic birch or a cabinet-grade plywood for a cleaner edge), one 4x4 sheet of 1/4-inch plywood for the storage bottom, two 3-inch butt hinges, 1-1/4-inch and 2-inch wood screws, wood glue, and a clear finish or paint. The total material cost runs roughly $120 to $180, depending on plywood grade and hardware.

Cut List and Measurements for a 6-Foot Bench

Measure your space before buying plywood. The bench here fits a 72-inch wall, but you can adjust the length by cutting the top, front, and back panels to match. The depth of 20 inches leaves enough room for a cushion and still allows most people to sit with their knees under a standard table.

From the 3/4-inch plywood, cut the following pieces: two end panels at 18 x 20 inches, one front skirt at 72 x 5 inches, one back panel at 72 x 18 inches, one bench top at 72 x 20 inches, and two divider panels at 18 x 12 inches. From the 1/4-inch plywood, cut one bottom piece at 69 x 18 inches. The dividers create three storage bays, each about 22 inches wide—perfect for storing table linens or small kitchen gadgets.

Use a circular saw with a straightedge guide for clean, straight cuts. If you’re using a table saw, rip the panels to width first, then crosscut to length. Label each piece with a pencil to avoid confusion during assembly.

Building the End Panels and Dividers

Start by assembling the two end panels. Each end panel is a simple rectangle, but you’ll need to add a 3/4-inch notch at the top front corner to receive the front skirt. The notch measures 5 inches high by 3/4 inch deep. Mark the notch on both end panels and cut it with a jigsaw or circular saw. Sand all edges smooth.

Next, attach the two divider panels to the back panel. Position the first divider at 24 inches from the left edge and the second at 48 inches from the left edge, leaving a 24-inch gap at each end. Use 2-inch screws driven through the back panel into the dividers, with glue on the joint. The dividers should be flush with the top and bottom edges of the back panel.

The dividers do more than organize storage—they stiffen the long back panel, preventing flex when someone leans against the bench. If you plan to skip the dividers, you’d need to add a center support or use thicker plywood, but for this design, the dividers are essential.

Assembling the Bench Frame

Lay the back panel flat on the floor with the dividers facing up. Attach the two end panels to the ends of the back panel using 2-inch screws and glue. The end panels should be flush with the back panel’s top, bottom, and side edges. This creates a U-shaped frame when you stand it upright.

Stand the frame upright and attach the front skirt. The skirt fits into the notches you cut earlier, sitting flush with the top of the end panels and spanning the full 72-inch width. Drive screws through the end panels into the skirt, and also screw up through the skirt into the back panel if you can reach—otherwise, use corner brackets inside.

Now install the storage bottom. Slide the 1/4-inch plywood sheet into the frame so it rests on top of the bottom edge of the back panel and the dividers. The bottom should sit about 5 inches below the top edge of the front skirt, leaving a 5-inch toe kick. Secure it with 1-1/4-inch screws driven from underneath through the skirt and back panel. This creates a recessed storage area that is 18 inches deep and 12 inches tall.

Attaching the Bench Top and Finishing

Cut a 1/2-inch chamfer or round-over on the front edge of the bench top to soften the edge where your legs will rest. Sand the top and all frame surfaces with 120-grit, then 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe off dust with a tack cloth.

Lay the bench top on the frame, flush with the back and sides. Mark the hinge locations: one hinge 8 inches from the left end and one 8 inches from the right end. Attach the hinges to the back panel first, then to the underside of the bench top. Use 1-1/4-inch screws. When closed, the top should sit flush; when open, it stays propped against the wall if the bench is placed against one.

Finish with two coats of primer and two coats of a satin enamel paint, or a clear polyurethane if you want the wood grain visible. Let the finish cure for 24 hours before using the bench. Add a cushion and a few throw pillows, and the nook is ready for breakfast. For a built-in look, screw the bench to wall studs through the back panel—a good safety step if you have small children.