How to Fix a Leaking Kitchen Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide

Identify the Faucet Type Before You Start

Before you turn off the water, look under the sink and examine your faucet. The most common types are compression, ball, cartridge, and ceramic disc. Each has a different internal mechanism, and the repair steps differ significantly. Knowing which one you have determines the parts you’ll need and the disassembly process.

Compression faucets have separate hot and cold handles and use rubber washers that wear out. Ball faucets have a single handle and a rotating ball that controls flow and temperature. Cartridge faucets can be single- or double-handle and use a replaceable cartridge. Ceramic disc faucets have a single handle and a solid brass body with a ceramic disc valve. If you’re unsure, take a photo of your faucet and show it at a hardware store.

Turn off the water supply valves under the sink—usually two small shut-offs. If you don’t have shut-offs, turn off the main water valve. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water. Place a towel in the sink to catch small parts that might fall.

Compression Faucet Leaks: Replacing the Washer and Seat

Compression faucets are the oldest type and leak when the rubber washer at the base of the valve stem deteriorates. You’ll notice a drip from the spout, often worse when the faucet is turned off. You’ll need an adjustable wrench, screwdriver, and replacement washers that match your faucet’s size.

Start by removing the handle screw (often under a decorative cap) and pulling off the handle. Use a wrench to loosen the packing nut and lift out the valve stem. Replace the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem—it’s usually held by a small screw. Also check the valve seat (the metal ring inside the faucet body); if it’s rough, use a seat grinder or replace it.

Reassemble in reverse order, tightening the packing nut snugly but not over-tightening. Turn the water back on and test. If the leak persists, the seat may be worn—use a seat wrench to remove it and install a new one. This repair is straightforward and costs under $10 in parts.

Ball Faucet Leaks: Replacing the Ball and Springs

Ball faucets are common in kitchens with a single handle. They leak from the spout or around the handle when the ball’s seals or springs wear out. You’ll need a hex wrench, needle-nose pliers, and a ball faucet repair kit that includes the ball, springs, and seals.

Turn off the water and drain the faucet. Use a hex wrench to loosen the set screw on the handle and lift it off. Unscrew the cap and collar using pliers—wrap tape on the jaws to avoid scratches. Lift out the ball, springs, and rubber seals. Note their order; take a photo before removing.

Inspect the ball for wear or scoring. If it’s worn, replace it. Otherwise, replace the springs and seals with the kit parts. Apply plumber’s grease to the new seals, then reassemble. Tighten the collar and cap securely, but don’t over-tighten—you’ll strip the threads. Test for leaks. This repair typically takes 30 minutes and costs $15–$25.

Cartridge Faucet Leaks: Swapping the Cartridge

Cartridge faucets are the most common in modern kitchens. They leak when the cartridge’s internal seals fail, causing drips from the spout or around the handle. You’ll need a screwdriver, pliers, and a replacement cartridge—check your faucet brand and model to get the right one.

Turn off the water and remove the handle, which may have a set screw or be threaded. Pull off the handle and unscrew the retaining nut that holds the cartridge in place. Use a cartridge puller (or pliers, if you’re careful) to grip the cartridge and pull it straight out. Note the orientation—some have a slot or notch that must align.

Install the new cartridge, pushing it firmly into place. Reattach the retaining nut and handle. Turn on the water and test slowly, checking for leaks. Cartridge replacement is clean and quick, often under 20 minutes. If your faucet has a pull-out sprayer, also check the diverter valve—a common leak source—by removing the sprayer head and cleaning the rubber seal.

Ceramic Disc Faucet Leaks: Cleaning or Replacing the Valve

Ceramic disc faucets are durable but can leak if the disc’s ceramic surfaces become scratched or the seals fail. They typically have a single handle and a solid brass body. Leaks appear at the spout or base. You’ll need a screwdriver, pliers, and a replacement cartridge—these are specific to the brand.

Turn off the water and remove the handle (often a hidden set screw). Unscrew the cap and lift out the cartridge—it’s a cylinder with a metal or plastic body. Inspect the ceramic discs for cracks or wear. If they’re fine, clean the cartridge with a soft brush and water to remove mineral deposits. If damaged, replace it.

Reassemble carefully, ensuring the cartridge is seated correctly. Tighten the retaining screws evenly to avoid warping. Turn on the water and test. Ceramic disc repairs are rare but can be done in 30 minutes. If the leak is at the base, the O-ring may be worn—replace it with a kit. Always use plumber’s grease on new seals to prevent future leaks.