Do I need a permit to hardwire under-cabinet lighting?

In most areas, adding a new circuit or modifying a permanent lighting circuit requires a permit and inspection. Replacing a fixture on an existing circuit may not need one, but local rules vary. Check with your local building department before starting; failure to comply can affect home insurance and resale.

Can I hardwire under-cabinet lights to an existing outlet?

You can extend a circuit from an existing outlet, but the outlet must be on a circuit that can handle the added load, and all wiring must meet code. If the outlet is near a sink, it must be GFCI-protected. For a permanent installation, you will need to install a junction box and connect the new cable properly, which is often best left to a professional.

What is the difference between wiring LED strips and puck lights?

LED strips are low-voltage and require a transformer (driver) to step down 120V, while many puck lights are line-voltage (120V) and connect directly to the circuit. Low-voltage strips need a driver that is either remote or integrated, and the low-voltage wiring must be rated for the current. Always match the driver wattage to the total strip length to prevent overheating.

Should I hire an electrician or can I do it myself?

Hardwiring involves working with live circuits and local codes. If you have experience with electrical work and understand wiring basics, you can do it, but you should always turn off power, test wires, and follow local codes. For complex runs, panel changes, or if you are not confident, hire a licensed electrician to ensure safety and code compliance.

How to Hardwire Under-Cabinet Lighting: Wiring Steps and Code Basics

Assess Your Kitchen Circuit and Load Before Wiring

Before turning off the power, identify which existing circuit will supply the under-cabinet lights. In most kitchens, under-cabinet lighting can be tied into a 15-amp or 20-amp lighting circuit, but check the total wattage of the new fixtures against the circuit's capacity. A 15-amp circuit at 120 volts supports up to 1,800 watts, though you should keep continuous loads at 80 percent of that (1,440 watts).

If your planned lights draw more than the available headroom, or if the kitchen already has heavy loads on that circuit, plan for a dedicated circuit. You will also need to decide between a wall switch, a dimmer, or a plug-in style transformer if using low-voltage LED tape. Hardwired low-voltage systems require a remote or integrated driver that connects to line voltage; ensure it is rated for enclosed or accessible mounting as per the manufacturer's instructions.

Gather Tools and Materials for a Permanent Connection

Standard tools for this job include a voltage tester, wire strippers, a drill with hole saw or spade bit, fish tape, a screwdriver set, and a stud finder. You will also need a junction box for each splice, cable clamps, and either NM (non-metallic) cable (14/2 for 15-amp circuits or 12/2 for 20-amp circuits) or flexible metal conduit if running wire through finished walls. Use wire nuts approved for the conductor size and a box rated for the number of wires you will join.

For low-voltage LED strips, you may need a separate low-voltage wire rated for in-wall use if the run passes through walls. Most building codes require that line-voltage splices (120V) be made inside a junction box that remains accessible after installation. If you are connecting to an existing switch loop, you will also need a three-wire cable (with ground) to bring neutral to the switch, depending on the wiring configuration and local code requirements.

Run the Cable From the Switch to the Fixture Locations

Turn off power at the main breaker panel and verify the circuit is dead with a voltage tester before handling any wires. If you are wiring from an existing switch box, plan the cable route up the wall, across the ceiling or through the back of cabinets, then down to the under-cabinet area. For a clean appearance, run cable inside the cabinet back panel, drilling holes through cabinet sides or the back of the base cabinet, and use grommets where wire passes through metal edges.

Use fish tape to pull the cable through enclosed spaces, and avoid running cable in areas where it could be pinched by doors or drawers. For surface runs inside a cabinet, secure the cable with staples or cable clamps every 4 to 6 feet and within 12 inches of each junction box. If you are installing a new switch, you will need to route cable from the panel or an existing junction box to the switch location first, then onward to the first light fixture.

Make the Splices and Connect the Fixtures

At each fixture location, mount a junction box that is accessible from below or inside the cabinet. Strip 6 to 8 inches of outer jacket from the NM cable, then strip 3/4 inch of insulation from each conductor. Connect the black (hot) wires, white (neutral) wires, and bare or green ground wires together using wire nuts, ensuring no copper is exposed beyond the nut. If your fixture has a ground screw, attach the ground wire to it.

For hardwired low-voltage LED drivers, connect the line-voltage side to the junction box wiring, then run the low-voltage output to the LED strips. Mount the driver in a well-ventilated space, but follow the manufacturer's clearance requirements; many drivers need at least 3 inches of air space. For line-voltage under-cabinet fixtures, connect each fixture in parallel—meaning all hots connect together, all neutrals together—so the failure of one lamp does not kill the entire circuit. After connections, tuck wires carefully and secure the fixture to the junction box with the provided mounting screws.

Test the Circuit and Check Local Code Compliance

Before closing up any boxes, restore power at the breaker and test each fixture with a voltage tester or by switching it on. Verify that the switch operates correctly and that the dimmer, if used, is compatible with the fixture type—some LEDs need a specific dimmer to avoid flicker. Then, turn the power off again to complete any remaining steps, such as installing the switch plate and cover plates.

Building codes typically require that all junction boxes remain accessible, that cable is secured within 12 inches of boxes, and that all splices are made inside approved boxes. Some jurisdictions also require arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) for kitchen lighting circuits, and ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) may be required if the lighting is near a sink. Check with your local building department or a licensed electrician before wiring, as permit and inspection requirements vary. If you are unsure about any step, consult a qualified electrician to avoid shock or fire hazards.