How do I know if a loose hinge needs a new screw or a new hinge?

If the screw turns but does not tighten, the threads are stripped in the wood, so try a longer screw first. If the longer screw still does not hold, the hinge plate or cup is likely worn—replace the hinge. Also check the hinge pin for wear; if it is loose, replace the hinge.

Can I fix a sagging door by adjusting the hinges, or do I need to replace them?

First, try the hinge's adjustment screws—most modern hinges have a cam or screw for vertical and horizontal movement. If the door still sags, the hinge may be bent or worn, and replacement is the reliable fix. Never overtighten hinge screws, as that can strip the holes and worsen the sag.

What is the best way to fill a deep scratch on a painted cabinet door?

For a deep scratch on painted wood, sand the area lightly, clean it, and apply a wood filler that matches the grain. Let it dry, sand smooth, then prime and repaint the entire door front to avoid a visible patch. For laminate, use a two-part epoxy tinted to match, and seal with a clear topcoat.

Is it worth repairing a water-damaged cabinet bottom, or should I replace the cabinet?

If the particleboard is swollen, soft, or crumbling, repair is rarely durable because the material has lost its integrity. You can try a wood hardener, but it is temporary. If the damage is localized and the cabinet box is otherwise solid, you can cut out the damaged section and splice in a new piece. Otherwise, replace the cabinet or the bottom panel.

Kitchen Cabinet Repair: Separating Myths From What Actually Works

Loose Hinges: Why Wood Filler and Matchsticks Are Not the Answer

Myth: You can fix a loose hinge by stuffing the screw hole with wood filler or a matchstick and driving the screw back in. Reality: This is a temporary bodge at best. Wood filler crumbles under compression, and matchsticks compress or split, so the screw loses grip again within weeks. The real issue is that the screw threads have stripped the wood in the pilot hole, not that the hole is too big in a way that filler can fix permanently.

The reality is that a proper repair restores the screw's grip in solid wood. For a hinge screw, that means using a longer screw that reaches past the damaged area into sound wood, or inserting a wooden dowel coated with wood glue into the enlarged hole, letting it dry, and then pre-drilling a fresh pilot hole before reinstalling the screw. This gives the threads new material to bite into, which holds for years, not days.

If the hinge itself is bent or the screw holes in the hinge plate are stripped, replace the hinge rather than forcing it. Also check whether the cabinet box is warped or the door is rubbing—sometimes the hinge is fine and the real problem is a misaligned door frame. Diagnose before you repair, and you will avoid repeating the same fix every few months.

Sagging Doors: The Truth About Adjusting Hinges vs. Shimming the Frame

Myth: Sagging doors are always fixed by tightening the hinge screws or adjusting the hinge tension. Reality: Screw tightening only helps if the screws are loose—and most sagging doors are actually caused by a combination of a heavy door, worn hinges, and a cabinet frame that has shifted over time. Simply cranking on the screws can strip the holes further or bend the hinge, making the problem worse.

The reality is that a sagging door needs a systematic check. First, open the door and lift the outer edge—if there is play in the hinge, the hinge pin or the hinge cup may be worn. For face-frame cabinets, you can often shim the hinge plate with thin plastic or cardboard shims behind the hinge to push the door into alignment. For frameless cabinets, you may need to adjust the hinge's cam or screw mechanism, which many modern hinges have for vertical and horizontal adjustment.

If the door still sags after hinge adjustment, check whether the cabinet box itself is racked (twisted). Use a level to test the top and sides of the cabinet. If the box is out of square, you may need to add a thin shim under the cabinet base to level it—but only if the floor is the cause. Do not force the door with longer screws into a frame that is not square, because that will just warp the door over time.

Damaged Surfaces: Why Touch-Up Markers and Paste Wax Are Not Permanent Fixes

Myth: A scratch on a laminate or painted cabinet can be permanently hidden with a touch-up marker or paste wax. Reality: These products mask the damage temporarily, but they do not adhere well to glossy or non-porous surfaces. The marker fades or wipes off with cleaning, and wax attracts dust and can leave a greasy residue that ruins the finish. They are fine for a quick cosmetic cover-up before a home staging, but not for a lasting repair.

The reality is that a durable repair depends on matching the surface type. For painted wood, you need to sand the damaged area lightly, prime with a stain-blocking primer, and then repaint the entire door or drawer front—not just the scratch—to avoid a visible patch. For laminate, you can fill deep chips with a two-part epoxy colored with pigment, but you must feather the edges and seal with a clear topcoat. For thermofoil (vinyl), repair is nearly impossible because the film is heat-formed; a patch will peel. In that case, replacement is the only reliable option.

Before attempting any surface repair, test a small, hidden area to see how the finish reacts to your chosen product. Also clean the surface with a degreaser and let it dry completely—oils from hands and cooking will prevent adhesion. And if the damage is a crack or a burn, do not just fill it; assess whether the substrate (the material under the surface) is swollen or rotted, because that will eventually push through any cosmetic repair.

Hinges and Slides: The Myth That All Replacement Hardware Is Interchangeable

Myth: Any standard hinge or drawer slide will fit your cabinet because they all use the same screw pattern. Reality: Cabinet hardware is not one-size-fits-all. Hinges come in different types—face-mount, European (concealed), and inset—and each has different screw hole spacing and cup depth. Drawer slides have different lengths, mounting styles (side-mount vs. undermount), and weight ratings. Buying the first 'universal' hinge you see often leads to misalignment or doors that will not close.

The reality is that you need to measure carefully before buying replacements. For hinges, measure the distance between the screw holes on the cabinet frame and on the door, and note the hinge's overall dimensions. For concealed hinges, you also need to know the cup diameter (usually 35mm) and the overlay of the door (how much it overlaps the frame). For slides, measure the drawer depth (not the cabinet depth) and the slide's length from front to back, and check whether the drawer is a full-extension type.

If you are replacing a hinge or slide that has failed, take the old part to a hardware store and match it by brand and model if possible. If you cannot find an exact match, bring photos and measurements. Do not assume that a slightly larger screw or a shim will make a different-size hinge work—this creates stress that will cause the door to sag or the slide to bind, which is exactly the problem you are trying to fix.

When Repair Is Not Worth It: The Reality of Structural Damage and Water Exposure

Myth: Any damaged cabinet can be repaired if you have the right glue and clamps. Reality: While many cosmetic and hardware issues are fixable, structural damage—such as a water-swollen particleboard bottom, a cracked cabinet side, or a broken miter joint—cannot be glued back together to original strength. Wood glue works on clean breaks in solid wood, but it fails on oily, dirty, or previously glued surfaces. Particleboard that has swollen from water will not shrink back, and any glue you apply will just sit on the surface.

The reality is that you need to evaluate the extent of the damage. If the cabinet box is intact and the damage is limited to a screw hole or a small area of the finish, repair is a good option. If the cabinet is structurally compromised—for example, the bottom is soft and crumbly, or the side is cracked all the way through—replacing the door, drawer, or even the entire cabinet is more cost-effective in the long run. A repair on a failing structure will fail again, and you will spend double the time and money.

Also consider the cause of the damage. If water is coming from a leaky sink or dishwasher, fixing the cabinet without addressing the leak is pointless. Check for active leaks under the sink and around the dishwasher before you commit to a repair. If the damage is from a one-time spill and the wood is dry, you can sometimes stabilize it with a wood hardener, but this is a temporary measure. For long-term durability, replace the damaged panel or the whole cabinet if the structure is compromised.