Induction vs Gas vs Electric Running Cost: 5 Beginner Questions

Which hob is usually cheapest to run?

In an all-electric home, induction is usually the least expensive option for the same cooking task because it transfers more energy into the pan. Gas may have a lower unit price, but its greater heat loss can erase that advantage. A conventional electric-coil hob sits between them in efficiency, although an efficient coil can beat a basic induction hob at high power.

The ranking changes when gas is much cheaper than electricity. At equal useful heat, gas must cost less than roughly 64% of the electricity price to beat 64%-efficient induction. That is a useful screening test: compare the same currency per kilowatt-hour before estimating an annual bill.

There is no universal winner without household tariffs, hob efficiency and cooking habits. The calculation below uses only figures you can find on a bill or appliance specification. Cooktop purchase and installation prices are deliberately excluded from the running-cost comparison.

What numbers do I need before comparing costs?

Find the all-in electricity rate on your latest bill: total charges attributable to energy divided by kilowatt-hours consumed. Do the same for gas, including metered supply and standing charges where practical. If your tariff varies by time, use the rate applicable to your usual cooking periods. A tier 3 estimate should retain currency, billing period and whether taxes or fixed charges are included.

Next, identify the hob's rated input. Gas specifications may list British thermal units per hour; one kWh equals about 3,412 Btu. Electric hobs are normally rated in watts or kilowatts. A nameplate rating describes maximum draw, not average consumption during a cooking session.

Finally, estimate the useful heat required for your actual meals. Efficiency ranges are only estimates, so they should be presented as a range rather than a promised saving. Induction and electric-coil values are site-to-pan estimates; gas values can vary more because burner setup, pan shape and ventilation affect losses.

How do I calculate a fair annual running cost?

First convert every energy price to the same unit, then apply the useful-heat formula. For gas sold by the therm, multiply the price per therm by about 29.3 to obtain a price per kWh of gas energy. The useful heat needed is the hob input multiplied by cooking time and efficiency.

The following example uses illustrative rates of 0.25 per electricity kWh and 0.08 per gas kWh, plus 100 kWh of useful cooking heat per year. The purchase price, installation and maintenance are not included. Replace the rates and efficiency assumptions with your own values before using the result for a budget.

Why can gas look cheaper but cost more overall?

Gas prices are often quoted per therm, while electricity is quoted per kWh. A therm contains much more energy, so comparing the two headline prices directly is misleading. Convert both to cost per kWh, then account for the amount of useful heat delivered to the cookware.

Efficiency also affects the amount of input energy required. For the same useful heat, a 40%-efficient gas burner uses about 2.5 times as much input energy as a 100%-efficient reference. A 75%-efficient electric coil uses about 1.33 times as much, while an 85%-efficient induction hob uses about 1.18 times as much.

The result can change sharply when gas is inexpensive, electricity is expensive, or cooking is limited to a few short tasks. Use your own timed cooking record for a more reliable estimate; an annual figure based on one boiled pan may not represent roasting, simmering and reheating.

• Convert gas from therms to kWh before comparing prices.
• Use the all-in rate that matches the period when you cook.
• Record several typical cooking sessions rather than relying on maximum power.
• Separate energy use from purchase, installation and repair costs.

What hidden costs change the running-cost comparison?

A lower monthly energy bill does not automatically make a hob cheaper overall. Induction may require compatible magnetic cookware, a suitable electrical circuit or professional installation. Gas can involve a line connection, ventilation and safety checks. Electric-coil models are often inexpensive to buy, but their energy use and replacement parts still matter.

Some households also face demand charges, time-of-use rates or minimum service fees. These charges can make a simple per-kWh comparison incomplete. Check whether your tariff includes fixed charges and whether cooking occurs during a peak period. A professional electrician or gas installer can confirm circuit capacity, ventilation and local code requirements.

For a whole-life estimate, add the purchase price, installation, expected maintenance and the present value of annual energy costs over the period you expect to keep the appliance. Do not treat a manufacturer's efficiency claim as a guarantee; it is an operating assumption unless supported by measured household data.

• Compatible cookware and any required adapters
• Circuit, gas-line or ventilation upgrades
• Installation and inspection fees
• Repairs, parts and warranty coverage
• Tariff structure, including peak periods and fixed charges

How much could switching save in a real household?

The most useful answer is a range based on your own use. Start with the annual useful heat estimate, calculate each hob's cost, and compare the resulting ranges. If the ranges overlap, the data do not support a confident claim that one technology will save money.

For example, a household cooking 100 kWh of useful heat per year at the illustrative rates above would see an estimated difference of about 11–40 per year between induction and gas. That is before installation, cookware or maintenance. At 200 kWh of useful heat, the difference scales approximately to 22–80 per year, assuming the same rates and efficiencies.

A switch may still be worthwhile for reasons unrelated to energy price, but those benefits are outside this comparison. If your goal is pricing, keep the analysis focused on measured consumption, tariff structure and the costs that will actually change in your home.